Dinner Wed-Sat 5.30pm-9.30pm
A clean, slightly stark room and neat plywood furnishings are clues to the thinking at Three Japanese. Fussy and complicated? Not here. Instead, an assured kitchen serves food that speaks of clarity and simplicity. Start with the tsukemono plate, a varied collection of Japanese pickles that leads with stepping-stone certainty through a range of pure tastes, from a pleasing astringency to umami punch. Miso-grilled eggplant is reduced to a melting sweetness, while kara-age fried chicken and mixed tempura with soba noodles both maintain the theme of good ingredients cooked carefully - conveying tender, crisp flavours. Binchotan-grilled pork is fine without being game-changing. The wine list, although a touch pricey, also cuts out the fuss, with all but one choice either Tasmanian or French. Consider skipping the grapes and, instead, let your intrepid waiter guide you into the refreshing and surprising world of dish-matched sake.