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Hot Plates: Pulp Kitchen, Ainslie

Pulp Kitchen's French onion soup

Pulp Kitchen's French onion soup

Rusted-on Pulp Kitchen aficionados relax - the steak frites stays!  With Gus Armstrong of 86 now at the helm, the re-launched Pulp Kitchen in the northern Canberra district of Ainslie, has stepped up a notch while still respecting its origins as a relaxed suburban bistro.

The neutral-toned space seems brighter, the furniture and fittings smarter and a touch retro, while stylish textured walls keep noise levels in check. Bistro traditionalists will flock to the standout lemon tart of perfect acidity and exceptional pastry or a classically executed French onion soup with vintage Comté with which no shortcuts have been taken, only loads of butter and hours of braising can produce such depth and complexity of flavour.

Local organic lamb chops with braised cos lettuce and scrapings of morels show restraint and a commitment to quality produce, and a focused, savvy drinks list features the best local craft IPAs, pét-nat, and Eden Road's inspired P3 pinot blend. Welcome back, Pulp.

Pulp Kitchen, 1 Wakefield Garden, Ainslie, ACT, (02) 6257 4334, open for lunch from Fri-Sun from Noon, dinner daily from 5.30pm. pulp-kitchen.com.au

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